Where the Waves Break: Surfing in Northeastern North Carolina Traveling Exhibit

Surfing has been around for centuries, with roots in Polynesia, particularly Hawaii and Tahiti. Along North Carolina’s southern coastline, early forms of surfing activity were first documented in 1909. Surfing was introduced to the northern coast of North Carolina in the 1920s. What began as a sacred activity for Indigenous islanders has become a mix of cultures all its own. For more than a hundred years, many surfers have ridden these waves. For some, surfing is a profession; for others, it is a hobby, a therapeutic activity, a community to join, or a mechanism to raise awareness for causes.

The Outer Banks, where waves meet shifting sands, is known to have the best waves on the East Coast. The region’s geography of a curved coastline, along with ocean swells from the north to the southwest, creates excellent surfing conditions. High-pressure systems, hurricanes, and nor’easters bring favorable surfing conditions. Hatteras waters are a mixture of the Gulf Stream’s warm waters and the Labrador Current’s cold waters. Shifting sands craft sandbars, affecting the breaking points of waves. Great surf spots include the S curves in Rodanthe, the jetties at Hatteras, near shipwrecks, and along the piers.